Well, after aimlessly floating off the coast of Spain until our COVID numbers came down, we were finally allowed to dock in Barcelona. We had six nights there, but because I had to lead a field class on day 3, we used the ship as our hotel for the first few nights. Day 1, we explored the main city park and the gothic quarter. It was a beautiful sunny Sunday, so the park was crowded and the gothic quarter was deserted.
We also saw the ancient and beautiful Barcelona Cathedral.
The next day we actually did some shopping along the waterfront and had a long Spanish style lunch in the harbor (long and full of sangria).
Day three was my class, and we learned quite a lot about consumer behavior in Barcelona by visiting several types of markets.
For the latter half of our visit, we moved into an apartment a block from Sagrada Familia, the Gaudi designed cathedral that will take more than 100 years to build. The view from the apartment was great.
It’s still under construction, but it is simply spectacular. I took so, so many pictures. It’s hard to choose, but here are just a few. It’s really hard to explain the scale of the place. It’s absolutely massive. The inside was designed to look like a forest, and as the sun comes in different windows the light just changes completely.
Outside, the cathedral is also incredible. The biblical stories are told in stone in massive sculptures. And yet there are also some Gaudi flourishes that make it so clear it is one of his buildings.
On our final full day we headed to Park Guell, also Gaudi designed. It’s a long hike up, but has amazing views and awesome architecture.
So, it’s been awhile since I’ve added anything, and that is largely because we have been out at sea, away from effective wifi. Why, you ask? Well, let me tell you a story. It’s a story about letting your COVID guard down… I think. We are fully masked on the ship, and before Croatia and then Malta we were generally doing everything possible to avoid stricter measures. Here is one more picture of wonderful Malta as we sailed away…
We had in-person classes (masked) and we were asked to keep our masks on even outdoors on the ship, unless we could stay very far away from one another. But then we had a couple of port visits where masks were basically non-existent and vaccination rates are very low (Croatia), and no vaccine mandates were in place for restaurants and shops (both Croatia and Malta). We went from zero cases to about 42 positive cases of COVID, plus many “close contacts” (mostly roommates). Basically, lack of precautions and then having to eat meals together in a small inside space is not a great combination. We ran out of specially designed isolation rooms, and we had quarantined students distributed throughout the ship (including outside our cabin, which was scary).
As a result, we were not allowed to port in Spain on schedule. Spain demands 3.5% positive cases or less, which for the number of people on board made 23 for us. So, leadership made the decision to postpone our arrival to Spain and to go into a “shelter in place” model for 4 straight days. We moved to virtual teaching (which, without streaming – so no Zoom – meant recording narrated powerpoints in my cabin for my students). No one was allowed out of their cabins except for meals (in small groups) and after a day or so, 30 minutes extra of outside deck walking time each day. We had a window (see the picture below) so it wasn’t that bad for us. But for those with inside only cabins, three to a room with no sunlight, this was a tough four days. We got to enjoy some lovely sunrises and sunsets, but it was weird. To be expected when you get on a ship mid-pandemic maybe…
And if you think COVID is the only glitch this leg, you would be wrong! SAS leadership realized they made a pretty critical mistake. When COVID restrictions closed both Morocco and Ireland to cruise ships, we changed the plan to more time in Spain and Portugal instead of Morocco, and then Denmark for Ireland. But that change brought many voyagers, including us, into direct conflict with the Schengen zone rules (which I had never heard of before). So, here’s the deal. Once SAS told us we didn’t need visas for any of our ports, I never gave immigration another thought. However, the Schengen area (which includes about 24 countries that are also in the EU) limits visits by Canadians and Americans to 90 days out of a rolling 180. Our new voyage plan was going to keep up in the zone too long, and many of us would be at risk of having to leave early, pay fines, be deported… lots of fun options. So, we have changed itineraries again! Now we are heading to the U.K. twice. First, we are heading to Gibraltor between Spain and Portugal. Then, we are heading to Scotland instead of Denmark. I am pretty excited, as both are new countries for me.
At any rate, as I write this now we have been in Barcelona for a couple of days. We are staying on the ship for the first few nights and heading into town on day trips. I have a field class tomorrow with my students, and then we are heading to an Airbnb for three nights. It’s beautiful here, and I am sharing a couple of Barcelona pictures now. But there will be plenty more in the next installment!
The pictures below are the Cathedral of Barcelona, and a church and courtyard (with the fountain) that was heavily bombed and destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. Franco’s forces bombed and attacked this church, where children were taking refuge from the bombardment, and many of them died. You can see a lot of gun fire and bomb damage on the façade, which was the only part of the building left standing.
We spent a good part of this afternoon drinking sangria and enjoy fantastic weather. So, onward and upward!